Carnival - the exuberant celebration that precedes the Christian observance of Lent - is most closely associated with Brazil, and especially Rio de Janeiro with its famous Sambodromo floats and dancers. Nonetheless, there are carnival festivities throughout Latin America, with Peru being no exception.
Arguably the best-known in Peru is the Carnaval de Cajamarca, a vibrant and colourful five-day festival celebrated in the city of Cajamarca.
Like so many Andean celebrations, the Cajamarca Carnival has deep historical and cultural roots, blending indigenous traditions with Spanish influences.
It is a time of celebration, music, dance, and merriment, bringing together the local community and visitors from various parts of Peru and beyond.
Timetable of the Carnival of Cajamarca
Friday
The selection of The Queen of Cajamarca Carnival takes place on the Friday prior to Ash Wednesday, at the end of February or early March. Each district presents a female candidate aged between 18 and 22, and a panel judges them on various criteria such as deportment and eloquence to find a winner. An old-fashioned beauty pageant!
Once chosen, the Carnival Queen is celebrated during the following days wearing her crown and sash, as a major component of each event.
Saturday
The carnival in Cajamarca begins in earnest on Saturday, when the Carnival King, called Rey Momo or Ño Carnavalón, enters the city in the form of a giant, cartoonish mannequin. For the next few days he rules over the carnival parades … and symbolizes a time of fun and unruliness.
Saturday is also Paint Day, where people spray each other with water, flour and paint. Not even the police are spared from this honour!
Sunday
Sunday sees a parade known as the Concurso de Patrullas y Comparsas which is a celebration of Peru’s cultural traditions, in the form of a competition.
Troupes of musicians and dancers of all ages, up to 30 strong and dressed in wonderful costumes, present traditional music and dances on the streets of Cajamarca, with prizes on offer for the best in a variety of categories.
Each dance has its own significance and symbolism. For example:
Diablada: the participants dress as devils and dance to ward off evil spirits.
Pukllay: a dance representing the struggle between good and evil.
In preparation for the festivities the next day, Cajamarca is quiet in the evening.
Monday
Carnival Monday is the main day of celebration with the Gran Corso de Carnaval. This is an even bigger parade than the previous day through the streets of Cajamarca, consisting of colourful floats, music bands, dancers and other performers all dressed in costumes and masks.
After the parade, the celebrations continue at the Plaza de Armas with the tradition of unsha or cortamonte. During this event, a tree is adorned with gifts and decorations, and participants take turns dancing around the tree.
Eventually, the tree is chopped down, and everyone rushes to collect the gifts tied to its branches.
Shrove Tuesday
On Tuesday the death of the Carnival King, Ño Carnavalón, is mourned. People dress in black, weep at his coffin and hold a wake with traditional food, liquor and cigars.
Ash Wednesday
On Ash Wednesday, the Carnival King is buried at Baños del Inca, a small town just outside Cajamarca known for its thermal springs.
Before he is buried, Ño Carnavalón’s will, which is filled with satirical comments about government authorities and local dignitaries, is read out.
The Carnival ends with traditional dances.
Throughout, the festival is an occasion to indulge in traditional Peruvian cuisine and local delicacies. Street vendors and food stalls offer a wide range of dishes and treats, including typical Carnival foods such as anticuchos (grilled cow hearts on skewers), tamales, and traditional sweets.
How to enjoy Carnival in Cajamarca
As you can imagine, Cajamarca’s Carnival attracts a large numbers of visitors. In 2023, it was estimated that some 100,000 extra people came to the city around the festivities. As a result, accommodation and transport gets booked up well in advance. So please get in touch with plenty of anticipation, if wishing to visit Cajamarca at this time.
Of course, Cajamarca is a great place to visit outside of Carnival as well. PeruNorth’s Cajamarca Cultural itinerary allows one to explore the area’s pre-Columbian, Colonial and modern history over 4 or 5 days.