Volodymyr Oleksyshyn, a Ukrainian-American resident of Chicago, had travelled to Chachapoyas with PeruNorth in November 2022. He got back in touch in early 2025 wishing to visit some of the places he had missed or hadn’t had time for in 2022; and wanting to hike the trail to Choquequirao, while his knees were still up to it!

These are his comments having done the trip in September / October 2025:

“Hello, Miles,

First of all, I would like to thank you for the perfectly organized trip for me. It was absolutely flawless from the pick up at the Chachapoyas airport to the drop of at the Cusco airport. Very well planned and very dynamic, just what I was looking for.

Yes, this trip was mainly built around the hikes. I did a one-day hike to La Petaca, three-day hike to the Laguna de los Condores, and five-day hike to Choquequirao.

All three treks were quite difficult, involving long ascents and descents up and down the mountains. Sometimes muddy, sometimes very slippery.

Everybody has his own physical limitations, so I cannot really rate it. To me, it was challenging enough and sometimes I had to push myself to keep going.

I am glad that I was able to do it and I am kind of proud of myself to be honest.

My favorite cultural destination was Choquequirao, especially after hiking there for two days. The site itself is quite remarkable and definitely worth such an effort. I was surprised how many Peruvians undertake this strenuous hike. It must be a very special place for them.

I met a lot of nice people from different countries on this hike as well. Great weather, great team of guides, horsemen, and cooks, great co-travelers. I enjoyed every moment of it even when I cursed myself for getting into this kind of endeavor and threading my way up and down the mountains for hours and hours for five days. I am glad I did it.

Another place that impressed me a lot was the Kuelap fortress. Three years ago, I could not get there because the site was closed after a landslide. I am glad I decided to re-visit it. This place is really amazing, very distinct featuring those numerous round stone structures.

Taking a Teleferico cable car to get there is a thrilling adventure on its own.

My favorite natural destination was the Laguna de los Condores. A very beautiful lake in the mountains and a very beautiful trek to get there. Breathtaking vistas every way you look.

Unfortunately, the rainy season this year started few weeks sooner and it was raining all the time. Luckily, I was well prepared for it.

The only regret is that because of the rain and because we had to move fast to make it before the dark, I was not able to take as many pictures as I would like.

*Sonche Canyon*, Cuispes with guide, *Josh*.

I had multiple guides on different treks – Josh in Chachapoyas and Cuispes (Yumbilla waterfalls), Santos in Leymebamba (La Petaca and Laguna de los Condores), Darwin (Choquequirao), and a guide who took me to Tipon and San Pedro Cathedral whose name, if I am not mistaken, was Diego.

San Pedro Cathedral [in Andahuaylillas, Cusco] is a true architectural marvel. Too bad, you are not allowed to take pictures there to show its beauty to others.

All the guides were great, well organized, and very knowledgeable about the treks.

Santos Diaz was a guide, a horseman, and a great cook. Three in one.

I am very grateful to all of them for making my trip enjoyable.

My favorite accommodation was Bosque Azul in Leymebamba. Great service.

I am very thankful to Rodrigo, Juan, and Magali for their exceptional hospitality. Very interesting place. You can see how much work, effort, and passion was invested in it.

Cannot name any [favorite] restaurants in particular. I tried few different restaurants in Cusco, decent food but, comparing to ten years ago, they feel much more commercialized and tourist oriented, like everything else in Cusco. Meals are considerably smaller than before and much pricier. Main accent now is on “presentation.”

I enjoyed a lot more the meals that were prepared by our cooks during the hikes. Those meals were really good. My co-travelers would vouch on that.

Santos is good, but the cook on Choquequirao trek, nicknamed “Shaman,” is a real deal. If it was up to me, I would award him a Michelin star.

Forms of transport. For the most part, I was walking. That was the main idea behind this trip. I also rode a horse on the Laguna de los Condores trek (a very stubborn one 😊), took a Teleferico cable car to and from Kuelap.

I was given a car ride from Leymebamba to Cajamarca. The road was very treacherous, very narrow, snaking through the mountain ridge inches away from the steep slopes. Add a thick morning fog to it…. Lots of adrenaline.

Unfortunately, I do not know the name of the driver, but I am very grateful to him for a very safe non-stop eight-hour drive. Great composure and endurance. Gave him a nice tip.

Most pointless item in my luggage were gaiters. They were mentioned on the suggested packing list so I bought myself a pair. Never got to use those because knee high rubber boots were the best option for the Laguna de los Condores hike. Otherwise, hiking boots were enough.

As for natural encounters, I enjoyed all the views on my hikes. I love the mountains.

Unfortunately, I did not come across much wildlife on my trip. Saw few condors at the distance, a fox, and few birds.

There were plenty of insects around. Small black flies were particularly aggressive. Got quite few bites at the first camp on the way to Choquequirao. Flies are very small, soundless. You do not feel them bite but you feel the result of those bites next day. Therefore, insect repellant is a must.

I did not experience any altitude sickness since we never went over 11,800 feet; or any other physical discomfort except for being tired.

On the way back from the Laguna de los Condores, I made a crucial mistake by not taking enough drinking water with me. Generally, I do not drink much water, so I thought my 32oz bottle would be enough. Wrong. At the end of the hike, I was very thirsty and dehydrated.

So, this is my honest account of my trip. I am very glad that I undertook it and I am very grateful to you for helping me with this trip.

If you can, please extend my appreciation to other people involved.

There are so many places in Peru I would like to visit. This time I have my eyes on Vilcabamba.

Thanks again.

Sincerely,

Volodymyr”