PeruNorth originally put together a Northern Peru itinerary for Ty Agens & Gloria Quinn - a California couple now residing in Oaxaca, Mexico - that was scheduled to depart in May 2020.
The Pandemic meant that this trip was postponed for SIX years, but they finally got to visit in May 2026, flying from Lima to Chachapoyas and then making their way overland back to Lima for two weeks, via Leymebamba, Cajamarca and Trujillo, stopping at various archaeological and natural highlights along the way.
Here is what they say about the experience:
‘Trip was great—everything! Guide, lodging, itinerary.
What were your favourite cultural destinations in the itinerary?
So many, but ancient Caral stood out. To think that it is nearly 5,000 years old, and being of such a grand scale, it kind of boggles the mind.
Also, Marcahuamachuco.
Las Monjas sector at Marcahuamachuco.
What were your favourite natural destinations in the itinerary?
Gocta Falls and Yumbilla Falls were equally spectacular.
Who was your guide? How did they perform?
Johan Aguilar was the guide. Very knowledgeable about the cultures and natural points of interest. We thought Johan was great!
Which was your favourite accommodation and why?
Ruins of Las Aldas, overlooking Pacific Ocean
Toss-up between Gocta Andes Lodge and Hotel Las Aldas. Both for the natural beauty just outside the windows.
Also, Gocta Andes Lodge had an excellent breakfast buffet with some local foods rotating through our stay. They also had good dinner options.
Hotel Las Aldas had interesting owners and the room was comfortable, with the sound of the ocean just outside and ruins just a short walk away.
Bosque Azul was also terrific, beautiful grounds, amazing view and wonderful, warm staff. And the Costa Del Sol in Trujillo was excellent!
In contrast, our room at the Costa del Sol in Cajamarca was extremely noisy: There was a disco across the street that didn’t close until after 5 am on Saturday night/ Sunday morning. I assume an interior room would have been quieter and a better option for us.
Which was your favourite restaurant / dish / drink?
We ate so much delicious ceviche —both fresh-water and ocean-based.
Lunch at Amazonica in Chachapoyas was charming and delicious, a great start to our trip.
The Maracuya Pisco Sours at Gocta Lodge are perfect.
Pizza from the wood-fired oven at Bosque Azul was a fun change.
Did you lose or gain weight over the course of the holiday!?
We both gained about 1kg during the trip.
What forms of transport did you use?
We had a Toyota Hilux with an excellent driver named Dante. It was spacious for 4 people and our gear, very capable in a few places where the roads were rough or flooded.
Did your itinerary involve any hiking? How would you rate it in terms of difficulty?
All of our hikes were pretty basic day hikes. None were particularly difficult on their own, but the elevation would sometimes slow us down a little. And we live at 1,600m (5,250ft) above sea level.
What was the most pointless item in your luggage!?
Love this question! I’d say a tiny foldable tripod. Oh, and the short lenses on my Micro 4/3 Lumix camera. Especially for the Chachapoyas region, I wished we had brought a longer (more telephoto) lens.
What was/were your favourite natural encounter (eg. animal / bird / flora seen)?
There were lots of interesting birds and plants.
Did you suffer any insect bites?
The worst day for bug bites was the hike from Gocta Lodge to Gocta Falls. There were some kind of black fly that didn’t seem to care that I’d put on insect repellant. Those bits on my arms and legs left marks for 2+weeks and were super itchy.
Did you have much interaction with locals? Where and how did this occur?
The bulk of our interaction with locals was when dining or walking around town in the evenings. We also had a good time talking to locals at the markets in Chachapoyas.
Did you feel your money was going to local businesses and people?
It feels like the bulk of the money went to hotels. Although we did tend to eat dinners in small, local restaurants when we could.
Were you given any information regarding sustainability during the course of your trip (e.g. talks on environmental issues from guides)?
I don’t recall that subject coming up. Except when we were talking with Johan and Dante about things we noticed in a general way.
Did you notice any areas where environmental practices could be improved?
Nothing comes to mind. Thinking back, I do think that overall you and your teams did a really good job of that. Johan bought 10L bottles of water and that certainly helped cut down on waste.’